WHERE DOES CONDITIONED AIR ESCAPES IN HOMES ?

(Energy savings based on information from the Department of Energy at www.energy.gov)

31% Floors. Walls and ceilings

15% Ducts

14% Fireplace

13% Plumbing penetrations

11% Doors

10% Windows

  4% Fans and vents

  2% Electrical outlets

ENERGY SAVING TIPS

SAFETY FIRST

Have your furnace and gas appliances serviced annually by a qualified contractor (licensed and insured) annually. Where carbon monoxide and smoke detectors are not installed or unserviceable  have them installed or replaced, a small price to pay that could be life saving.

BUYING A NEW FURNACE?

When buying a new heating system (HVAC) or appliance compare energy efficient ratings and annual operating costs. The cost of a slightly more expensive high efficiency system could be recovered in a very short period of time as the result of lower energy utilization and lower utility bills. As the cost of energy may increase over time you will be glad you did. A high efficiency HVAC system may serve also to promote your property when selling in a more cost conscious and environmentally aware population..

The term heating system applies to both the furnace and the air conditioning duct distribution network, air filters, air returns, and vents.

AIR CONDITIONING DUCTS, RETURNS, FILTERS AND VENTS

It  make little sense to attach a high efficiency furnace to a leaking duct system so be sure to have the integrity of your air conditioning ducts inspected for insulation and leaks by a qualified contractor. Poor duct insulation and/or leaking ducks ranks second on the list for those areas where conditioned air may escape the home.

A dirty air filter can drive up the cost of air conditioning your home. Change them regularly as required.

Vents can be adjusted in specific rooms to receive the desired temperature results keeping in mind that heat rises allowing upstairs vents to be partially closed.

Close vents and doors in unused rooms. 

Avoid blocking vents and air returns with furniture drapes etc.

As always consult with your qualified heating/HVAC contractor to make sure that these methods work well with your HVAC system design.

INSULATION

Ranked the number one culprit on the list and accounting for up to 31% of where conditioned air escapes in homes is through inadequate insulation in ceilings, walls and floors. This area of concern may be more prevalent in older homes constructed with inferior insulating materials as compared to the availability of technologically advanced insulating materials and installation methods available today.  In some older homes insulation in some crucial areas may be missing entirely.

Check to see if your attic and crawlspace and/or basement have recommended levels of insulation. Add insulation as needed.

Inexpensive pre-cut insulation gaskets can be used to seal off cold air entry through electrical switches and outlet plates, especially on outside walls.

If you have ceiling fans make sure that the mountings are snug, use clear caulking to seal any leaks even minor cracks around the base can allow cold air in.

If pipes or ducts run through unheated areas, insulate them.

During the winter months exchange a few degrees off the thermostat for a warm sweater and set the thermostat between 65 to 68 degrees. During sleeping hours use an extra blanket and lower the thermostat another 5 degrees. When away for several hours set your thermostat to 58 degrees. Of course use your discretion at all times when setting the temperature particularly for the elderly, children, infants or any ill persons in the household.

Installing a programmable thermostat (with a manual override feature) to suite your air conditioning schedule/needs will result in a more regulated automated routine which can savings in greater savings result overall.

A Humidifier either installed on your furnace or as a separate unit can help control heating costs. You will feel warmer in moist air, so you can set your thermostat lower.

DOORS AND WINDOWS

Seal leaks around doors and windows (and other openings such as around pipe or duct openings) with caulking or weather stripping.  Consider storm or thermal windows and doors or double paned glass. If necessary a cost savings alternative is plastic sheeting, temporarily fastened over doors and windows to retain heat or conditioned air.

Closets and cabinets on outside walls can leak conditioned air. Make sure the doors fit snugly and keep them closed.

FURNISHINGS

Use awnings, draperies, blinds or shutters to slow heat loss through glass windows and doors. On sunny winter days keep window/door coverings open to allow the sun’s warmth in. Close them on winter nights to insulate against the cold.

In the summertime use drapes, blinds, shutters, tree shade, reflective glass film or solar screens to keep sunlight out. Place furniture on interior walls where you are less likely to feel cool drafts near outside walls.

WATER HEATERS & WATER USAGE

Set the water heater thermostat to 120 degrees and install water-flow restrictors in shower heads and faucets. Water saving showerheads and faucet aerators can save up to 50% on hot water use..

Check your water heater manual for instructions and drain sediment from the tank at least once a year. Removing the sediment facilitates proper heat exchange functioning and extends the life of the unit. Many manuals are available on line.

Repair leaky hot water faucets promptly to avoid wasting gallons of hot water in a relatively short time.

Be sure that dishwashers, washing machines (and clothes dryers) are fully loaded before operating.

FIREPLACES

Your fireplace is one of the most inefficient heat sources in the home literally sending your energy savings up the chimney.  A roaring fire can exhaust as much as 24,000 cubic feet of warm air per hour to the outside. This warm air is replaced with cold air drawn into the home from the outside through unsealed areas to the outside elements. Your HVAC system must now work harder to heat this cold air entering from the outside, which in turn is exhausted through the chimney. Turning down the HVAC (colder) thermostat setting

when using the fireplace in this manner can offset the added cost in this scenario.

Keep your fireplace damper closed unless a fire is going. An open damper is the equivalent to opening a 48” wide window during the winter when the heating system is operating.

Gas fireplace logs should be not be used to heat the home . Use them sparingly and decorative purposes only in very cold weather. Nor should gas or electric ranges be used for home heating purposes, a very costly and potentially dangerous thing to do.

If you never use your fireplace, plug and seal the chimney flue.

OTHER

Use kitchen, bath and other ventilating fans sparingly in cold weather. In as little as one hour these fans can extract a household of warm air.